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Home » Installation » Installation on Doors

Installation on Doors

Installation on Doors
This project involved covering an old door with Silver Shine Veneer. Proper surface prep is important. The surface was sanded and brushed clean before the Veneer was installed
Installation on Doors
Veneer is laid out and cut with sheet metal shears. Cutting is simple because of its thin, flexible nature. Note the back of the material is scribed with a knife.


Installation on Doors
Adhesive is applied with a toothed trowel. This project used heavy-duty construction adhesive. Note some construction adhesives foam when moisture is present. Clamps can be used to prevent separation or swelling.
Installation on Doors
A roller is used to press down the surface. Start from the middle to push air out towards the edges. Care must be taken not to push the adhesive out, or an air gap may form.


Installation on Doors
Note the grout lines have been cleaned with a scraper and filled with grout. Door knob and dead bolt holes have been cut with a hole saw.
Installation on Doors


Installation on Floors

Veneer can be used for flooring with the proper adhesive and application techniques.  Since itis not a thick solid stone it is not recommended for high traffic areas.  It can be used for low traffic flooring areas such as residential bathrooms or where wet traction is required.  Some colors of Veneer offer better traction than others.  For example Silver Shine or Jeera Green will have more texture then some of the other softer slate colors. Sealers will have an effect on the traction of the surface of each color.  Therefore, it is recommended that various sealers be tested prior to final installation when considering it for flooring.
Installation on Floors

Subfloor Materials

For new installations Veneer is best adhered over most standard subfloor materials such as cement board, and backer board usually in the ½” to ¼” thickness range. Using a layer of cement board or backer board over wood floors will result in a more solid feel to the finished floor. 

Veneer will also offer a protective resilient surface inherent with the stone face and fiberglass backing.  This can further help with crack prevention in some cases.

Concrete and masonry substrates must be at least 28 days old. Hydrostatic pressure conditions and vapor transmission cannot exceed 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. (1,36 kg per 92,9 m2) per 24 hours using a calcium chloride test.
Installation on Floors

Notice
Prior to installation, user shall determine the suitability of the product for its intended use and user alone assumes all risks and liability whatsoever in connection therewith.


Installation on Walls

OVER EXISTING TILE SAVES TIME AND MONEY. Since you don’t need to remove the tile, you can simply adhere Veneer over it. You will also save time and labor by not renovating what tile there is. As long as the tile is sound why remove it? With this type of resurfacing you can reduce the environmental impact of a total renovation AND keep the existing plumbing. Most standard brand name plumbing fixtures now have remodel kits which allow you to only change the fixtures, not the interior plumbing; another time saver.

Installation on Walls
Before
Installation on Walls
After


Installation on Walls
Stripping and priming the existing tile assures a good bond. The primer used here is “Gripper” by Glidden®. We found it to be a good primer where you want the maximum adhesive bond.
Installation on Walls
Pre-fitting and numbering the sheets will help with installation as shown here. Here, each sheet was cut to fit and was numbered before installation.


Installation on Walls
Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive was used here since it cures without evaporation. A non-evaporative adhesive is required when applying between two sealed surfaces.
Installation on Walls
A 3/16” notched trowel is used to distribute the construction adhesive evenly. The same adhesive must be buttered to the back of the sheets before rolling.


Installation on Walls
A large roller is then used to apply the Veneer to the tile. Only light pressure is needed to remove air bubbles. Too much roller pressure will leave air gaps.


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